From Burgundy to McLaren Vale

On the surface, it may seem curious for a McLaren Vale winery to reflect on Burgundy, but the connection runs deep.

I recently read a paper written by Jeff Gower in 2002 on Burgundy. Jeff owns the Lenswood property where our Yandra Vineyard thrives - a vineyard Greg Trott, the visionary behind Wirra Wirra, recognized for its unique potential.

Today, Yandra forms the backbone of The 12th Man Adelaide Hills Chardonnay, and, in true Burgundian spirit, a single block now produces the Yandra Vineyard Lenswood Chardonnay.

Jeff visited Burgundy in 2002 and was clearly struck by how different it was from Australian winemaking at the time. What stood out to me while reading his paper is how much the philosophies that so impressed him in Burgundy would feel familiar in the Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale regions today.

Burgundy’s enduring lesson is the art of place: the precise articulation of site-specific character. At Wirra Wirra, we’ve embraced what I call the “Burgundification” of fine wine. It’s a relentless pursuit to deeply understand every site, every block, and what makes each one special. By honing in on their individual expressions of climate, soil, and topography, we craft wines that are distinctly Wirra Wirra—balanced, layered, and textured.

In 2002, Australian viticulture was characterized by scale, innovation, and market responsiveness rather than terroir-specific expression. Large vineyards, mechanization, and a focus on varietal labelling defined the industry. Regions like McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills were emerging as high-quality wine regions, but the focus remained on consistency and approachability over individual terroir.

Today, regions like Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale have evolved to embrace Burgundy’s reverence for terroir. Inspired by Burgundy’s emphasis on place, winemakers have shifted toward smaller-scale, site-specific practices. This evolution is reflected in the proliferation of single-vineyard wines and micro-parcel viticulture, as well as a greater focus on soil health and biodiversity.

For example, McLaren Vale’s diverse geologies, from sandy loams to ancient clays, now underpin blending decisions and vineyard management strategies. Adelaide Hills producers mirror Burgundy's focus on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, tailoring vineyard practices to optimize their unique cool-climate conditions. These shifts echo Burgundy’s ethos, blending modern science with traditional techniques like minimal intervention winemaking and natural fermentations.

Burgundy remains a bastion of tradition, but Australian regions now present an evolved ethos that would resonate with a Burgundian vigneron. Vineyards in Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale often employ sustainable or biodynamic practices akin to those in Burgundy. The use of high vine densities, attention to canopy management, and restrained oak treatments reflect a Burgundian influence, ensuring wines are balanced and expressive of their origins.

Yet, Australia retains its unique identity. McLaren Vale, for instance, celebrates old vine Shiraz and Grenache with an emphasis on depth and vibrancy, reflecting its Mediterranean climate. Adelaide Hills producers balance Burgundian elegance with Australian innovation, offering wines that are both terroir-driven and globally appealing.

Custodians of Place and Potential

Sharing Jeff’s insights on Burgundy feels timely as we reflect on how far we’ve come and where we’re headed. At Wirra Wirra, we are custodians of land, tradition, and the stories that inspire us to capture the true essence of every vineyard we touch. The evolution of Australian wine over the past two decades is a testament to the pursuit of excellence, blending the art of place with the spirit of innovation. Jeff’s reflections on Burgundy remind us how much we’ve learned—and how much more there is to discover.